If you follow the Owls Trail around the centre of Dijon, it will take you past the Hermes shop. Thereafter the limits on the plastic are unlikely to be tested so severely. However what Dijon is lacking in textile finery (it does have some charming bonnet shops!), it more than makes up for in the quality of its calories!
The Market Les Halles
Built in the 1870's, the Market is a Dijon and Burgundy institution. Locals gather there not merely to buy the latest products in season, but also to meet and catch up on the weeks events. Knowledgeable stallholders who take pride in what they sell, willingly dispense advice on how to cook their fare. A small bar provides a mid morning energy supplement. Look out for the cheese counters, organic (en bio) vegetable stalls, an organic bakery, Jean Livera - the snail man, the stalls selling their own herbs fresh in season, and Bresse chicken purveyors.
There is only one artisan mustard maker left in Burgundy - Edmond Fallot. Their production centre is in Beaune (an interesting visit) however they recently opened a shop in the old quarter of Dijon on Rue de la Chouette, a stone's throw from the market, next to the church Notre Dame de Dijon. Here the friendly staff will guide you to taste the mustard, and are also knowledgeable about the history of mustard making in Burgundy. Fallot mustards can also be purchased in taster packs from The Burgundy Shop www.theburgundyshop.com
There are a number of good chocolate shops in Dijon, but the one that we like the most is Fabrice Gillotte - a Master Chocolatier, whose shop 21 Rue du Bourg is always full of Dijon locals stocking up on the latest delicacy.
The best patisserie is close to the market - Pierre Hubert 31 Rue des Godrans. Their cakes, biscuits and chocolates are outstanding.
Apart from the stalls on the market, which are likely to be closed if it is not market day, look out for Fromagerie Porcheret on Rue Bannelier and Le Chalet Comtois on Rue Musette leading to Notre Dame de Dijon.